HRV Maintenance
To keep your Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) working at peak performance, it should be cleaned twice a year in spring and fall. Many newer homes don't have bathroom fans but rely on the HRV to control the humidity in the home. Proper operation is critical to prevent excess moisture build up and possible mould growth.
Turn off the HRV and unplug it. Open and clean inside the machine. Remove and clean or replace, the filters. Remove and wash the heat exchanger, it should slide out on a set of tracks.
Check to see if your HRV has a condensate drain — a pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom. If so, slowly pour about two litres of warm, clean water in each drain pan inside the HRV to make sure it is flowing freely.
Next, go to the exterior of the house where the intake and exhaust vents are located. These vents have screens which must be cleaned, especially the intake vent which is most commonly clogged with insects and debris. Remove and inspect the vents and vacuum out the ducts. Making sure these vents are clear will ensure the air in your home is healthy for your family and allow your air exchanger to work more efficiently.
It is also a good idea during the winter to check that the vents are clear of snow or ice buildup.
Turn off the HRV and unplug it. Open and clean inside the machine. Remove and clean or replace, the filters. Remove and wash the heat exchanger, it should slide out on a set of tracks.
Check to see if your HRV has a condensate drain — a pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom. If so, slowly pour about two litres of warm, clean water in each drain pan inside the HRV to make sure it is flowing freely.
Next, go to the exterior of the house where the intake and exhaust vents are located. These vents have screens which must be cleaned, especially the intake vent which is most commonly clogged with insects and debris. Remove and inspect the vents and vacuum out the ducts. Making sure these vents are clear will ensure the air in your home is healthy for your family and allow your air exchanger to work more efficiently.
It is also a good idea during the winter to check that the vents are clear of snow or ice buildup.
The Attic Hatch – Are You Losing Heat (and Money)?
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MARCH 2020
If your attic hatch isn't sealed, it's an escape hatch for heating, cooling and the hard-earned money spent on higher utility bills to pay for both. Attic hatches are often under the radar when it comes to eliminating sources of energy loss in your home. It's not uncommon to find homeowners who have upgraded attic insulation yet neglected this gaping energy hole that allows heat to escape your living spaces in winter and invade in summer. When a typical attic hatch isn't properly sealed, the hatch alone can lose more energy than the entire ceiling. With the new changes in the building codes, homes are being retrofitted and built much tighter, trapping moisture inside the house. Any air leakage can cause excessive moisture build-up in the attic causing a condition called "Attic Rain". Around the hatch is also a common area for mould to develop as the moisture from the interior air frosts and condenses around both the hatch and the housing around the lid. An attic hatch leaks energy in two ways: Direct air leaks around the trim and by conduction through the thin plywood board or drywall material the hatch is made of. To ensure that your attic hatch is well insulated and has an airtight seal, there should be insulation (rigid foam board insulation is ideal) on top of the attic hatch door, as well as, weatherstripping (generally closed-cell foam tape) on the wood trim lip that the door closes or rests against. The gap between the trim that the hatch door rests against and the ceiling (or insulation-stop material) should be well sealed for airtightness. Consider adding a latch similar to sliding window latches to keep the hatch tightly in place. |
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